MONTE CARLO — Rounding the curve on the middle corniche, we see the narrow winding streets of the fabled city spread out before us, clinging to its vertical perch within the Pre-Alps mountain range. Descending steeply toward an unbelievably blue Mediterranean at the foot of the famous gambling casino for the haute monde, and the site of Europe's premier grand prix, reminds us that this truly is the Cote d'Azur. We have driven our Volkswagen Passats down from the chilly high country of ...

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